The French Broad
  • Food
  • April7th

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    A Book of Verses underneath the Bough,
    A Jug of Wine, a Loaf of Bread-and Thou
    Beside me singing in the Wilderness-
    O, Wilderness were Paradise enow!
    …Omar Khayyam

    I have been a chef for 38 years.  Nothing I have done is more difficult than making a great loaf of bread!

    Such a simple food – bread.  Four ingredients, flour, water, salt and yeast.  Yet, the variations of these simple, ancient and essential ingredients produces endless results.  When handled with a masterly hand nothing is more satisfying.  Even though I made bread everyday for 38 years, I confess, it was never great.  Now, without other concerns, I can focus attention to perfecting that craft, it might take, perhaps, another 38 years to master.  Hopefully not. Read More | Comments

  • April6th

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    TRECCE DI GIULIETTA (the braids of Juliet) WITH ARUGULA PESTO ** PEASHOOT & ARUGULA SALAD WITH MEYER’S LEMON DRESSING ** CHICKEN STUFFED WITH ROASTED LEEKS & TURNIPS

    Saturday’s class featured four ingredients – arugula, pea shoots, baby turnips and leeks.  (If you were to visit Italy this month, on every local menu you would find: arugula salad, pasta with arugula or arugula stuffed seafood.  No tomatoes!)  The intelligence, of course, is to use what is fresh and seasonal.   For class this week, with the exception of a lemon, all the produce was grown by Missy Huger and Chris Sawyer at Jake’s Farm located in Candler.  They are a certified organic farm, with whom I have been doing business for many years.  (Note on your calendar, tailgate markets open April 17.)

    The theme of SATURDAY’S KITCHEN – go to market, come home and prepare the basics for the remainder of the week.  In 3 hours, we prepared the “foundation” for all the recipes featured this week.  My approach is not to teach “recipes” – instead it is to demonstrate techniques and provide a road map of how to get from a starting point (buying at market) to some destination (a meal or menu).  I think I even said “recipes are crutches!”  Ouch.  Demonstrated in a few hours of concentrated work is how to provide many easy, delicious meals for the entire week.  To eat well, you must cook, a little mess in unavoidable, however, do it all at once, the rest is easy.

    Here are recipes featuring the first of Spring’s seasonal ingredients.  Later this week, I will post up the cooking “logic” of turning basic ideas into many dishes. Read More | Comments

  • April2nd

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    WHAT’S HAPPENING ON SATURDAY – April 3

    Tailgates are not yet open, but this week we are cooking primarily with ingredients form Jake’s Farm, which is here in Asheville.  The first young and tender things are coming in from the greenhouse/cold frame.  Finally, the end of the winter food doldrums.

    In about 2 hours of class time, we will organize and produce the basics preparations for the week’s menu posted below.  The recipes from the class and photographs will be posted next week.

    -Mark

    SEASONAL MATERIALS

    • Toscano Kale
    • Pea Shoots
    • Arugula
    • Leeks, Scallions
    • Baby Turnips
    • Vietnamese Coriander
    • Italian Parsley

    KITCHEN ESSENTIALS

    • Stocks – chicken stock & dashi
    • Hard cheese – Reggiano-Parmigiano
    • Flour, yeast
    • Salt
    • Fats – olive oils Read More | Comments
  • March30th

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    -Alisa Hixson

    The email this morning read “ The Crop Mob must go on. ” Noting the weather forecast of rain and possible thunder, we set out to take part in Asheville’s first “Crop Mob.”  The notion and community effort of a “Crop Mob” are not new — just the catchy moniker. For the uninitiated, a “Crop Mob” is an amorphous group of volunteers with varying   skill levels who share a common goal of keeping local farms alive. They work hard, learn or share their knowledge, enjoy the community of others and have some fun.

    Mobbers descend on a chosen farm and, side by side, crank out some key tasks that need doing. A meal is shared after the work has stopped and perhaps some live music. Collaboration, camaraderie, and completion of tasks that many farmers will admit they’d be unable to accomplish even over a few months time. Think barn raising fast forwarded  by the internet. A continuation of a long tradition of  “Do unto others….” Read More | Comments

  • March30th

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    RECIPE: Host a Crop Mob & Plant A Blueberry Patch

    No, it is not blueberry season, but it is time to plant blueberries.  To make this cobbler, it will take seven years to prepare.  In the first year, test the soil and scratch your head what to plant in a very acid soil.  Second year, clear the brambles and cut down the scrub trees.  Third year, pull the stumps and the roots out of the ground, amend the soil.  Fourth year, add six inches of organic matter (last year’s old straw and manure from the barn and stalls).  Hold a Crop Mob to plant 500 bushes on a rainy, muddy Sunday.  Sixth year, prune back the bushes, no fruit.  Seventh year, get first, very small crop of berries. Make the cobbler.  (Save this recipe until blueberry season). Read More | Comments

  • March26th

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    WAITING ALL WINTER & LONGER.

    Now that it is behind us, I can say it without fear of retribution – I hate Winter, the short days, the gloom of fading light at five o’clock.  I miss fresh food and savoring the flavor of sun on dirt transformed into tasty goodness.  I am weary of cooking beans and kale and cabbages.

    The return of longer days isn’t the only thing I have been waiting for.  I have been waiting for the emergence of all those wonderful wild things that grow in the surrounding hills and mountains.  (Not to mention the intoxicating fragrance of daphne – which is blooming now, as I write this).   Since moving to western North Carolina in 1972 I have foraged – mainly mushrooms, but also poke salad, branch lettuce and most wonderful of all – ramps.

    Allium tricoccum – wild leeks, “are one of the first plants to emerge in the spring, traditionally consumed as the season’s first greens.  They are considered a tonic because they provide necessary vitamins and minerals following long winter months without fresh vegetables.” I love them because they taste like garlic, have a fresh crunch and seem to get the juices moving again in my winter weary body. This is most likely true, as research now shows that the sulfur compounds in onions, garlic and leeks has definite, positive medicinal properties. Read More | Comments

  • March3rd

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    “Find something you can do with your children.”

    Michael Porterfield

    Urban farming is not a new concept.  Evidence points to the existence of urban agriculture in ancient cities, including – Paris, Rome, Peking and others…does Macchu Pichu ring a bell?  We have also certainly read about elaborate urban gardens in mythical places and classical ones. The positive benefits are many, generating a fresh local food source and esthetics among the most obvious. Why and how did such a sensible idea vanish? Why and how to bring them back into the 21st century?  What ever happened to those Victory gardens?

    With these thoughts in mind we head to the Oakley neighborhood of Asheville, North Carolina where we have an appointment at Gladheart Farms. We arrive at the end of Lora Lane as directed and find  three  houses of varying styles plus an old barn, a couple of yurts, a trailer home, a wandering goat and the shiny silver frame of a green house in progress. And lots of people. This is not exactly what I had envisioned. Though I don’t know it yet, the next three hours will shift how I think about farms. Read More | Comments

  • February25th

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    Winter Squashes Or Sweet Potatoes, Carrots?  Why not.

    SATURDAY’S KITCHEN. Ubiquitous in the garden, there are more than 150 varieties of the hard skinned winter variety of squashes.  Few make their presence known in the kitchen, which is a shame, as there are few vegetables that when properly cooked blend an inherent creamy texture with an earthy and often sweet flavor.  The color of the flavor reflected in the color of the flesh – deep rust; a rich and lingering earthy taste that haunts the palate, especially when highlighted by a curry spice or one based on clove.  Bright orange – zesty and sweet, when blended with citrus zest and butter makes a wonderful base for simmering mild fleshed birds – turkey, chicken, even game birds.

    How to make it.  This preparation is one of my “Paint Pots” – that is, it is something in my basic cooking palette, especially for Fall and early Winter.

    Use any combination of the following: acorn squash, butternut squash, kombucha squash or other winter squash.  Include sweet potatoes, carrots, or other orange root vegetables.  Preheat you oven to a moderate temperature, like 300F.  Cut the squashes into quarters, scoop out the seeds.  Peel the sweet potatoes or carrots if you are using them.  Place a piece of foil on a baking sheet and oil it, or use a silicone baking pad.  Put the vegetables on the sheet and place in the oven.  Roast until tender.  Check the vegetables every 30 minutes (set a timer if this helps).  Using a small knife or a fork, pierce the flesh, feeling how easily it yields to moderate pressure.  The softer the flesh, the more it is done.  Each squash or sweet potato cooks differently, as they become soft, remove them from the oven and put them in a bowl. Continue cooking them the remainder until they are all soft.  Allow to cool. Read More | Comments