The French Broad
  • How To Cook
  • February25th

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    Winter Squashes Or Sweet Potatoes, Carrots?  Why not.

    SATURDAY’S KITCHEN. Ubiquitous in the garden, there are more than 150 varieties of the hard skinned winter variety of squashes.  Few make their presence known in the kitchen, which is a shame, as there are few vegetables that when properly cooked blend an inherent creamy texture with an earthy and often sweet flavor.  The color of the flavor reflected in the color of the flesh – deep rust; a rich and lingering earthy taste that haunts the palate, especially when highlighted by a curry spice or one based on clove.  Bright orange – zesty and sweet, when blended with citrus zest and butter makes a wonderful base for simmering mild fleshed birds – turkey, chicken, even game birds.

    How to make it.  This preparation is one of my “Paint Pots” – that is, it is something in my basic cooking palette, especially for Fall and early Winter.

    Use any combination of the following: acorn squash, butternut squash, kombucha squash or other winter squash.  Include sweet potatoes, carrots, or other orange root vegetables.  Preheat you oven to a moderate temperature, like 300F.  Cut the squashes into quarters, scoop out the seeds.  Peel the sweet potatoes or carrots if you are using them.  Place a piece of foil on a baking sheet and oil it, or use a silicone baking pad.  Put the vegetables on the sheet and place in the oven.  Roast until tender.  Check the vegetables every 30 minutes (set a timer if this helps).  Using a small knife or a fork, pierce the flesh, feeling how easily it yields to moderate pressure.  The softer the flesh, the more it is done.  Each squash or sweet potato cooks differently, as they become soft, remove them from the oven and put them in a bowl. Continue cooking them the remainder until they are all soft.  Allow to cool. Read More | Comments

  • February25th

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    And what to do with them

    • Sweet Potatoes – Sweet Potato ‘Fries’, Sweet Potato Pumpkin Carrot Ginger Soup, Sweet Potato & Cider Gratin Read More | Comments
  • February20th

    8 Comments

    It is a given that cooking requires time and makes a mess.  But what meaningful thing doesn’t?

    This challenge is not new.  In the 20th Century literature there are at least 3 major author/cooks that address the issue of cooking/table/time.  M.F.K. Fisher wrote a book during World War II, How to Cook a Wolf – “in the earnest hope that you are being a good provider, try this simple plan: Balance the day, not each meal in the day.”  Dinner Against the Clock by Madeleine Kamman is a collection of “quick, sumptuous meals with the look and taste of infinite leisure”.    Finally, back in 1930, Edouard de Pomaine published French Cooking in Ten Minutes (Adapting to the Rhythm of Modern Life), a delightful guide that was also a weekly radio broadcast.  Gourmet magazine was also in this mix, publishing a monthly column Gastronomy Sans Argent that featured great recipes that cost little.

    As a believer and practitioner of The Table, these four pieces have been stuck in the back of my head for sometime.  I always imagined that at some point, I would attempt to bring the concept of “cooking with little time” forward to this century.  (I admit, not a modest claim).  Standing on the shoulders of these culinary giants (Madeleine Kamman was one of my mentors), afforded the ease of a digital global network, I will rush forward with an uncertain plan into Saturday’s Kitchen.  It is a year’s journey, at least. Read More | Comments

  • February11th

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    Paint Pots – Thinking Food Visually

    I often think about food visually, literally, I imagine what a flavor looks like.  I suppose this is in part to my training in design and that I think visually.  Cooking is indeed a lot like painting, mixing together different colors for a particular effect, setting warm and cool colors side-by-side to create depth or an emotional response.  So, I have taken to creating a series of essential “paint pots” that are always on hand when I am ready to “compose” a picture.

    I will write about my paint pots and share how I make them.  You should make up your own, and share them here, as well.  Starting in no particular order, except this is what is happening in the kitchen now, I’ll share something I just made.  Citrus is in season, a riot as a matter of fact, trees ripening fruit faster than it can be harvested, flavors peaking.  Citrus, therefore, is on the menu.  Most of us eat the fruit and throw out the peel – stop that right now!  Eat the fruit, but use the peel.  Lemon peel and orange peel can be a wonderful addition in many ways, as a matter of fact, lemon peel is an excellent substitute for salt. Read More | Comments

  • February9th

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    You cook with your hands, it is OK to eat with your fingers.

    Horrors!  If this were France, having said such a thing, I would be deported.  Well, never mind, this is Asheville.  Not that that means we aren’t cultured, it just means it is OK to pick some food up with your fingers, especially this salad, as it is nearly impossible to use a fork.  Texture in food is so important, often it is the reason for a dish.  In this case such is true.  This salad is a salad of crispy things and putting fork to this kale and spinach will render it impossible to get to your mouth.  And that would be a bad thing, as you want this salad exactly there.  Not only that, this preparation is kid-tested and kid-friendly.

    I owe this idea to Barbara Swell, an idea that came out of our earlier conversation about what to cook for children.  This is an elaboration.  The important technique to take away is this: drying foods, until they are crispy, will concentrate their flavor and completely change the texture, transforming a food that might otherwise not be savory to some palates.

    So here is how to proceed.  Set your oven to moderate – in the range of 325F to 375F.  Pick the freshest greens you can. Since this is winter, kales and cabbages are the ones of choice, as well as thinly sliced root vegetables such as fennel, or parsnips.  (Or even the peelings of potatoes, but more on this later).  A piece of equipment that is useful, though not absolutely necessary, is a baking pad made of silicone.  The two I am familiar with are a “Silpat” or an “Exopat”.  I think you can find these at most department stores that have any pride in their cookware selection.  A restaurant supply house will surely have them as well as the ‘gourmet’ type cookware stores.  The beauty of a slipat is that nothing sticks to it, even if you over cook something on it.  If you don’t have one, a piece of oiled foil will do. Read More | Comments

  • February2nd

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    If it doesn’t freeze where you live, then read no further.  As I write this, we are experiencing our second major snow storm of the year.  Heavy snowfall has been infrequent in the past few winters.  It is good, adding much needed moisture to the aquifer.

    Before heading out for some late night sledding and snow-play, something hearty to eat is called for.  So, digging around, using what is in the kitchen, I have made an easy winter soup.  This is a ten minute to prepare kind of thing.  Use what you have.  Fortunately, I do have a few items that will make the dish delicious.  Also, it is something, that once everything is cooked, you may serve it immediately, or turn the heat way down and wait.  Right now everyone in the house is in their “groove”, so we’ll wait until all our stomachs “go off”.

    A small, “yeah, right, ten minutes to prepare” – the tomatoes used in the soup were canned this past fall, when tomatoes had rioted into full ripeness and flavor.  So, okay, next season you will can and I will sit here smug that the dish will be amazing, for it’s simplicity, flavor and nourishing effect before we head out and trash ourselves in snow. Read More | Comments

  • March9th

    11 Comments

    IRON

    Posted in: How To Cook

    Extremes of temperature – very hot and very slow, iron is one of the perfect materials for cooking.  There is no material superior to iron, only some that are equal or better suited for some uses.

    What you cook with is as important as how you cook or what ingredients you choose.  Particularly in the South, an iron skillet is a main stay.  Not only does it handle heat well, it also ensures domestic tranquility – wasn’t it Teddy Roosevelt that said “walk softly and carry a heavy iron skillet.”  Actually, I think he said: ‘Speak softly and carry and big stick; you will go far.’ If the American nation will speak softly, and yet build and keep at a pitch of the highest training a throughly efficient navy, the Munroe Doctrine will go far. -  Chicago, April 1903.

    Iron has been used for cooking for millenia – first evidence of iron being cast was in China dating around 500 B.C.   Casting in Europe was much later, about 1160 A.D.  Iron has a precision, if used patiently, giving consistent and predictable results.  It works well on an open flame or in the heat of an oven, for slow cooking the high thermal mass of a heavy utensil allows for even heat distribution and lower cooking temperatures.  Properly seasoned, cast iron is non-stick.

    iron-6I call my iron skillets “shooting irons” and have used some for 40 years.  My children’s children will use them.  Considering the time frame of use, these skillets are free and there are no upgrades necessary to keep them operating.

    Certain rules apply, beginning with their initial ‘seasoning’.  First scrub the pans well in soap and hot water.  Pre-heat an oven to 250 degrees F (120 C).  Fill the pan 1/4 full with cooking oil and place in the oven, heat for 20 minutes and turn the oven off, leaving the pan to cool over night.  Next day, pour out the oil and wipe dry without washing.  Repeat this process twice more.  There will be an intial breaking in period, as the pan ‘matures’, turning from a grey metal color to the more familiar black of a well seasoned pan.

    To clean, use a bit of salt to scour out any bits and wipe clean.  I also wash my pans in hot water and mild soap, drying on the stove top on medium heat and then rubbing a bit of fresh oil on the pan.  You can always repeat the seasoning process, if the pan begins to stick or a crust of old oil builds up.  Using either steel wool or fine emory cloth, sand away the buildup and re-season.  I have done this a few times over the 40 years of use.

    The second rule, allow the pan to heat up before you start to cook.  Give it time to reach the point where it is comfortable – let the heat distribute throughout.  As the iron has a high ‘thermal mass’,  you do not need to use as high a temperature to cook.  In the oven, the black iron absorbs heat better.  Iron withstands high temperatures and direct heat better than any other cooking material.  For sauteeing there is no equal.  (The word “sauté” means “to jump” – literally the food should want to jump out of the pan, as it is so hot.)  I often preheat my skillets in the oven or actually sauté in the oven.

    iron-7Iron has a ‘pioneer’ personality – liking wide open space and room from it’s neighbors, so do not crowd the pan too tightly.  It is better to cook in batches than to stuff the pan.

    A few skillets of increasing size are useful, I have a range from 5″ to 20″, as well as the large and heavy ‘Dutch Oven’.  I sometimes use a Dutch oven with legs for cooking directly in a wood fire.