The French Broad
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  • January12th

    5 Comments

    THE FULL PRESS RELEASE

    GO-Kitchen Ready Program To Provide Launching Pad For Food Service Careers And Life Skills Training

    ASHEVILLE, NC (January 10, 2012) – An innovative joint venture between Green Opportunities, Goodwill Industries of Northwest North Carolina, Inc., Asheville City Schools Foundation, AB-Technical Community College, the Asheville Independent Restaurant Association and MANNA FoodBank will provide career opportunities in the food service industry, life skills training and potential job placement for future students of the new GO – Kitchen Ready Training Program.

    The program, managed by Green Opportunities, will offer training in basic food service and technical skills in culinary, baking, food safety and sanitation, nutrition instruction, food vocabulary and kitchen math. A portion of the class will focus on such life skills training as interviewing, job search and retention skills, resume writing and management of personal finances. The use of local food products will be a key component of the program.

    Students completing the program will be certified with “kitchen-ready” skills, including a SERV-SAFE certification and a mentoring program supported by Asheville area restaurants. GO, in association with the Asheville Independent Restaurant Association, Goodwill Industries and Asheville City Schools Foundation, will provide job placement support.

    Classes are scheduled to begin in March 2012 and will be held Monday through Thursday on the campus of William Randolph School. The curriculum includes 192 hours of hands-on kitchen instruction as well as 96 hours of classroom instruction over a twelve-week period. Two twelve-week sessions will be conducted in the first year of the program and classes will be limited to 15 students.

    Costs for participating in the program will be covered for qualified applicants. GO will use the training to produce meals for distribution through MANNA FoodBank as well as for some school meals for students and their families at William Randolph School.

    The GO Kitchen-Ready program is modeled after similar programs in other communities organized under the umbrella of Catalyst Kitchens, a network of organizations with a shared vision of empowering lives through job training, self-generating revenue through social enterprise and nourishing bodies and minds through quality food service. The Asheville initiative was launched with a start-up financial gift from the Asheville Independent Restaurant Association, with leadership and vision for the project originating with Michel Baudouin of Bouchon Restaurant. Other key supporters of the project are Steve Frabitore of Tupelo Honey Cafe, Anthony Cerrato of Fiore’s and BB&T.

    Mark Rosenstein, founder and former owner of The Market Place, is spearheading the research, development and launch of the Asheville program as its project manager.

    Green Opportunities is an Asheville-based nonprofit organization dedicated to improving lives, communities and the environment through innovative green collar job training and placement programs.  The Asheville Independent Restaurant Association’s mission is to unite the independent restaurant community as committed to local people, local philanthropies, local businesses, local food and the local economy through genuine food and signature hospitality.

    For more information about the program: GO – KITCHEN READY or contact Mark Rosenstein at 828-335-3328 or mark@greenopportunities.org

  • January11th

    1 Comment

    The next food trend is for everyone.  I call it “One Simple Truth.”

    Earlier this month I was contacted by Mackensy Lunsford.  She wanted to pick my brain about “big ideas” in food trends.  Needless to say, Food constantly is on my mind.  I shared my thoughts in an article for Mountain Express (read the article here).

    Her email came at the same moment that Green Opportunities (GO), Asheville City Schools, AB Technical Community College, MANNA Food Bank and Goodwill Industries of NW North Carolina had a meeting of the minds resulting in a training program, which was initiated by Michel Baudouin of Bouchon and supported by the Asheville Independent Restaurant association (AIR).  I have been working on the project for a year-and-a-half, resulting in the adoption of the proposal by GO on December 13.  Today, the project has been formally announced.  GO-Kitchen Ready Press Release

    The AIR led initiative is a pivotal event.  In the time I have been working on this project I have learned much and have arrived at a new relationship with Food.  I  learned is that food based training for individuals at risk has been happening for more than 25 years.  Here in Buncombe County, ABCCM and AB Tech have been collaborating for over 5 years, training veterans at the Veterans Restoration Quarters in east Asheville, the project is led by Eric Cox and Rachael Wilson. Culinary training is ongoing at Craggy Prison, AB Tech supports that as well.

    The first part of my food adventure was taken up with the creative and the particular.  The second, mature adventure will be about wholesome food for everyone.  It is no surprise that I will be training individuals at risk and working on  cooking based family training. Running a restaurant has many parrellels to both of these endeavors. It is a natural progression.

    Wholesome food habits are the foundation of good health.  I mean this is the broadest sense possible – physical, mental, spiritual, and communal.  If I had been lucky enough to be one of the framers of the Constitution, the First Bill of Rights would be access to wholesome food.  Then, you would be free to talk about it (like the French who are either talking about what they are eating, what they ate or what they are going to eat). Culinary training, on many levels, is keystone.

    Wholesome food cannot be an exclusive club.

    As we are getting ready to launch the GO – Kitchen Ready Training program, I want to thank everyone who has pulled together to make the project happen.  The board of AIR had the vision to support the feasibility study and the formation of the steering committee.  The work of steering committee comprised of Michel, Rick Jackson, Tom Ruff, Sheila Tilman, Kitty Schaller and Jen Waite was awesome.  Allen Johnson, Fletcher Comer and Eric Howard at Asheville City Schools worked to make the William Randolph campus available for the training.  AB Tech is providing instruction and Josh Pierce at Goodwill has been nothing but supportive.  Two chefs – Eric Cox and Jeff Bacon have shared everything they have learned form their own training programs.Giant thanks to Dan Leroy and Dewayne Barton of GO for taking the project on.  There are many others who have stepped up.

    As Allen Johnson, Superintendent of ACS said the other day, “it sure is nice to be working on a project that everyone is pulling together on.”  But, best and most humbling are the people I have met who are in training.

    Thank you.

    -Mark Rosenstein

  • November1st

    3 Comments

    ONE SIMPLE TRUTH

    Email from Bennie, Sunday October 29, 2011

    celebrated my b-day with my friends last night and i had an absolute blast. we didn’t really do much of anything but eat greasy Chinese take out and drink lots of cream soda. what i’m discovering more and more is how much i enjoy sitting at a table with friends and eating ( even if i didn’t cook the meal) me and my friends sat there for a good 2 hours talking, laughing and making stupid jokes….it was an absolute blast that i wouldn’t trade for the world. there’s something very connecting for me to eat with people, eating by myself is so depressing and when i sit down and munch away with friends i feel so fucking good!!! we were all eating each others food and sharing egg roles and it was awesome. i plan to stay in touch with these people, they’re my Guilford family and i feel so good with them, they like me for me and that, let me tell ya, is a rare and beautiful thing. i can be 100% bennie around them and not feel stupid for being weird and corky…because they are too!

    xoxo’s
    #2#1
    ps~ i know the storm clouds will clear, i know this, i do, i just wish it would happen faster is all.

     

    #2#1,

    Yeah, eating alone sucks sometimes.

    I had dinner with friends last night as well.  A big topic of discussion was food, sitting at the table with family and the writing that you and I are sharing.  We also laughed a lot and finally decided to call it a night so we could rest our stomach muscles.

    Having spent my adult life cooking professionally, running a restaurant, I came to realize what is important is not the food or my culinary skill as it was about bringing people together around the table.  The common lore is that the “hearth is the center of the home”, this is mostly true. It should be the “Table” is the center of home and community. (One of the reasons why I insisted on a “family meal” at work prior to our evening shift).

    A few years back when your sister was just joining Teach For America, I had a young waiter, Justin, planning on a teaching career.  He was at UNC-A in his senior year. The topic of discussion at family meal one evening was the importance of teaching and teachers.  I know I have told you this story before, as well as similar “table stories“, but it is worth repeating.

    Justin recounted what he had just learned in class that day.  “At the end of third grade, the state of North Carolina conducts end-of-year testing.  The results of that testing are used to plan how many jail cells to build in 12 years, as they are able to predict future outcomes for these children, based on their test results.”  This was disturbing news.  He continued; “in addition to that, there are two main factors that predict success on the test, first; the socioeconomic status of the child and second; what they eat!”  I was floored.  It was hard to believe, it still drops my jaw.

    I asked Brenna about this and she confirmed this to be a “fact” that TFA bandied about in their message.

    Over the next few months, I searched the internet for the exact citation of this finding, even contacting TFA.  I have never been able to verify that particular fact.

    A few months ago, I was contacted to submit a proposal for a TED talk here in Asheville.  Of course I thought about our own experience of “recreating the home cooked meal in the 21st century” – Bennie and Boomer’s story as a topic.  The importance of food, what we cook and how we cook it is always present in my thinking.  I needed to sharpen this thought and find the essential truth.

    So back to my research about the influence of food on children’s lives.

    This time, I was far more successful in finding quantitative research that confirmed what I have known intuitively for a long time.

    Here’s what I found.  There were five major studies published around the end of the 20th century, big stuff: Council of Economic Advisors, Harvard Medical School, University of Michigan, University of Minnesota, and Columbia University.  From there, I dove into the local reports about food issues in Buncombe County.

    None of them said exactly what Justin and Brenna said.  They said more, tons more.  And they all said the same thing, “More mealtime at home is the single strongest factor in better achievement scores and fewer behavioral problems in children of all ages.”

    The findings reported that children who spent five dinners at the table with at least one parent had greater academic success, better psychological adjustment, lower rates of alcoholism, drug use, early sexual behavior and suicidal risk.  Levels of obesity were also reduced and a healthier diet was followed. This was the golden nugget of truth.  I titled my TED talk “ONE SIMPLE TRUTH”.

    A fact of life is that our eating habits reflect the dysfunctional nature of our culture.  According to a study published this August, in Western North Carolina 29% of school age children go hungry.  Additionally, in Bunbcombe County grades K – 5, 30% are overweight or obese.  Looking only at fifth grade that number jumps to 39%!  This is bizarre.  60% of school age children suffer from a debilitating diet.  Even more bizarre, if we could help parents and children sit down and dine together 30 minutes a day 5 days a week, we would be well on our way to solving so many other problems.

    Frank Zappa was right – kill your TV set, or in this case your gameboy, xbox, smartphone and all the other distractions that impose on mealtime.  Instead, we have killed the family table, we have destroyed the ritual of the shared meal.

    I am convinced that this simple truth has an even broader affect.  I believe that sitting down to dine – meaning taking the time to be present at the meal with no distractions, benefits anyone who joins the Table.  I have even come to believe that while it is important WHAT we eat, it is even more vital HOW we eat, which is to say, take our time and share.

    We have work to do.

    I apologize for telling this story again.  You email and your messages of sharing food with your friends bring real joy to me.  To quote you “there’s something very connecting for me to eat with people.”

    I didn’t get selected for TED this year, something about they only had room for a science talk.

     

    -Boomer

     

    Here’s the research:

    Changes in American Children’s Time 1981 – 1997, Sandra L. Hofferth & John F. Sandberg, University of Michigan 1999

    Teens and Their Parents in the 21st Century: An Examination in Teen Behavior and The Role of Parental Involvement, Council of Economic Advisors, Federal Government 2000

    Family Dinner and Diet Among Older Children and Adolescents, Matthew W. Gillman, M.D., et al, Harvard University 2000

    The Importance of Family Dinner, Colombia University, The National Center for Addiction and Substance Abuse 203-2011 (on going research)

    Correlations Between Family Meals and Psychosocial Well-Being Among Adolescents, Marla E. Eisenberg, ScD, et al, University of Minnesota 2004

     

    And here’s a simple soup.

    Take a small (coconut sized) squash, (I used a sunshine squash because I like the sweetness of that variety) and put it on a foil lined baking sheet.  Put it in the oven whole at 350° F for about 45 minutes.  You have to check it once in awhile.  Roast it until it is soft when you squeeze it.  It may even crack and begin to weep a little liquid, but no more.  Let it cool.  Cut it in half and scoop out the seeds, (you can wash the seeds and roast them if you like, sprinkled with a little salt or curry powder or ground ancho chili powder they make tasty snacks – cheap ones) then scoop out the flesh and mash it with a fork or potato masher.

    Peel and cut two large potatoes into ½” cubes.  Cut two leeks into thin circles, washing out any dirt.  In a saucepan, heat some oil or butter, just enough to cover the bottom of the pan.  Add the leeks, cook over medium heat until they are soft, add the potatoes and the mashed squash.  Cover with chicken stock, vegetable stock or plain water.  Add one teaspoon of salt and ½ teaspoon of ground pepper.  Bring to a simmer, stir a few times and cook everything until it is quite soft and you can mash it up.  Taste it and add more salt and pepper if necessary.  Serve it with a salad, piece of good bread. You can add some ½ & ½ to it.  Yesterday at lunch, I chopped up some of the blanched greens that I cooked on Saturday and ate the remainder of the pumpkin brownie, sat it the sun.  It made eating alone not so bad and clean up was easy.

     

     

     

     

  • August28th

    6 Comments

    BACK AT GUILFORD

    Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

    Voice Mail From Bennie LISTEN.

    “Bonjour, c’est moi.  GOOD NEWS, my lasagne was a successssss.  I’m so proud of myself.  My stove now works, which is utterly delightful and my food was not shit, which is good.  I even fed my roommate and she didn’t die  - life is nice.  I’m so proud of myself, it was actually better than I thought…….so I’m feeling fine, meeepp. So basically right now I rule the uninverse…..in this moment I am epic and awesome and so am quite happy.  Talk to you later.  Bye.”

     

  • July25th

    10 Comments

     

    BENNIE SPEAKS: Parent & child

    Here are the things I know about my father: he’s a chef, he likes to blow shit up and he’s got a ‘special’ sense of humor. Wow, three things…that’s pathetic.

    Okay…let’s start over: before I started these lessons this I all I really knew. My father and I lost connection for a while. It was a mixture of me going from being child to teenager – me shrinking into myself – him not understanding how to reach out to his kid – who was obviously miserable. My dad loves me, but in those days my temper was even more unpredictable than it is now. This failure to understand and reach out was both of our faults, neither of us really knew how to communicate with each other anymore and it was uncomfortable and awkward for some time.

    However, things feel different now…there’s been a shift.  That shift started this summer after I asked him to teach me how to cook.  I swear – his face lit up. That’s when it really hit me: this is something he really cares about, this is his passion. You can’t do something for 40-plus years and not care. Well, I guess there are people like that out there but we typically call them sad sacks because they’re f**king miserable with life…but not my old man. He loves what he does. Which is awesome!

    My first lessons I learned to make stir fry, not particularly complicated, but it wasn’t about “being complicated”.  I’ll never forget how he looked at me: with pride and excitement, here his little girl was finally showing interest in something that has been his lifelong passion. We enjoyed the meal together and a great conversation.  It was like a breath of fresh air after years of suffocation. Dramatic description? Perhaps, but it felt so nice to have it just be us, eating a meal that I basically cooked by myself, and to see that glow-y ridiculously happy look in his eyes. Don’t get me wrong, my dad’s not a hard man to please but there something extra special about that ‘my daughter is taking an interest in my passions too!’ look that makes me feel giggly.

    Like most kids, I want my parents to be proud and pleased with who I am and what I do, this is especially true of my father. I’ve always been a ‘daddy’s girl’; as a child I felt closer to him than my mother. He just “got” me better than she did, we’re similar in our personalities and our humor. Now food is also something we have in common.

    So, since my relationship with my dear old dad is on the mend, I want to share some parenting advice – I know I’m no parent (nor do I ever wish to be one), but this advice is still valid none the less: cook with your kids. Seriously, my best memories of both my parents are when we were either eating together or I was pretending to be helpful in the kitchen while really just ‘supervising’. Cooking with your child is important because not only can you help them create healthy eating habits but you also get to bond while having legitimate fun with your offspring…. it’s a win-win. What a person eats is literally in direct correlation with their temperament and mental status. Don’t believe me? Just look up the countless studies that say ‘the more sugary, fatty, fake, gross shit your kid eats, the meaner and stupider they get’. Plus, lets not forget the ever growing obesity issue we have: if you eat right and set a good example of what’s good food…then ‘young grasshopper’ is sure to follow. I did (and I’m only mean sometimes).

    My journey with food has only just started, but already I’m telling my dad ‘hey lets make this’, obviously he couldn’t be more excited. As stupid as this sounds, food actually brought me, Bennie, back to my dad, Boomer. Food, or rather discussions of food have opened up the rusty communication channels between us once again and now a steady stream of talking has started. So, to all you hopeless parents of teenagers who are getting the silent treatment and/or perhaps the one fingered wave (a favorite of mine) tell your beloved little smart ass that tonight you’re going to cook together, whether you have to drag them kicking and screaming or just in a full on pout…they’ll thank you for it later, promise.

    -Bennie

     

     

  • July13th

    8 Comments

    WORKING IN NEW DIRECTIONS

    I have been relatively quiet the past year – not venturing out much beyond the perimeter of my yard, all else irrelevant. I have been deep in thought, contemplating what forty years of cooking means and how I will use that experience moving forward.  Exploring new territory, finding the right path takes time and there are often many false starts.  In the past, the answer to this pondering seems to appear in a flash – a moment of lucid insight.  Such a moment occurred last fall.  It has taken another 7 months to pull the pieces together and regain momentum.

    The bolt of lightning struck me when I was talking to my #2 #1 daughter – Bennie.  She was complaining about “caf” food at college.  She spent the previous summer working out, walking and eating right.  After returning to school, she said the food she was eating was making her gain weight and feel bad.  Actually what she said was: “the food at school sucks.” (She does not pull punches, nor does she adopt the language of her father, whose profession required him to develop a more tactful way.)

    She went on to offer a solution.  “I asked mom for a food allowance next year and she said she would do it, but I had to take some cooking instruction from you.”  Whoa!  Then the bolt of lightning.  What an opportunity.  My entire career I have been teaching – touting the virtues of the “Table”.  Now, my own child, who has basically ignored any involvement in food preparation, is asking me to show her how to cook.

    The implications of that request took awhile to sink in.  At Thanksgiving, I realized what I needed to do was write a cookbook for her.  I started journaling.  An early excerpt:

    “I won’t speculate on the odd convergence of events or wonder if the Universe has a design or wonder if there is a Devine Plan…This is one of those miraculous moments.  Having finally stepped away from the world of the professional kitchen and trying to line up my next creative adventure, it seems to me all the pieces are falling into a magical place.”

    “How do I gently nurture this wonderful creature into my realm that sometimes is plainly a lot of work…”

    And so, the journey of Bennie and Boomer has begun.  We are writing the book together.

    In this contemplative and sometimes chaotic place I have been since leaving the restaurant kitchen, my brain has been racing.  Bennie and I have been negotiating how these “lessons” would work.  I did not want to be a chef training an apprentice, nor did she.  We were both clear enough in our thinking to realize this was about empowerment, about sharing with each other an adventure together whose vehicle is cooking and whose goal was food choice.  Our time together this summer has become so much more.

    Our book is titled Bennie & Boomer: Recreating the home-cooked meal in the 21st century. It will be told in episodes and self-published, available online. The first episode due this fall.  It will be a comic book and embedded within the story are QR links, allowing our readers to view “the interesting & instructive stuff”; a picture is worth a thousand words.  We are working together to distill the kitchen into a simple and understandable place.  More importantly, it is a place where we have been having a lot of fun, as well as amazing conversations.  The real story is about our relationship.

    THE OTHER NIGHT

    High Holy Holiday of Boom and all – downtown for fireworks on Sunday, cookouts galore on Monday, a wild fireworks display at an unnamed farm in Fairview…(any need to explain where Boomer’s name came from?).  Coming home from Hominy Valley and packing up my “tools” for Fairview, I dash into the kitchen to music, a happy young woman dancing – smiling, pasta flying.

    Boomer: “Hey, what’s up?  You seem happy.” Bennie: “I cooked  dinner!”

    On Wednesday, Bennie’s friend has come over, on a night we had planned to do some cooking together.  Instead, I sat at the kitchen counter and gave a little direction – “turn the heat down”, “here’s a recipe for black walnut pesto – it is based on a classic from Italy”.  “How about a Watermelon Cucumber Salad with lemon, mint, basil and olive oil dressing?”  The two friends cook together, Bennie telling me later “You just disappeared, faded away, we didn’t even know you were there….”

    The next Saturday, I am out, as is Bennie and her friend.  I get home before they do.  I hear them come in, lively conversation and music in the kitchen.  In the morning, I am up early, on my way to cook and lecture at Warren Wilson College.  The kitchen in a mess.  “Damn it….”  the thought flies through my head and then clears, as I realize Bennie and her friend came home and cooked a meal together, sharing late night hours of friendship.  The song in my head is sung by Cecilia Bartoli with a back drop of a Blue & Silver 12-incher bursting over head….pure joy.

    Blue & Silver 12-Inch Shell By Ned Gorski, PGI Grand Master from French Broad on Vimeo.

    Black Walnut Pesto Sauce

    makes 4 to 5 cups

    2 tablespoons pinenuts (geez, these are expensive)

    1 tablespoon black walnuts

    2 tablespoons pecans

    1 teaspoon of salt

    4 – 5 tellicherry peppercorrns

    3 cloves of fresh garlic, peeled

    2 ounces of butter (that would be 1/2 of a stick, or 4 tablespoons)

    3 cups of basil

    4 ounces of grated parmesan cheese

    1 1/2 cups extra virgin olive oil, approximately

    Method: In a blender or a food processor, add the nuts, the garlic, the salt & pepper and 1/2 cup olive oil.  “Pulse” blend it until the nuts are coarsely chopped.  Start the blender again, and add some of the basil, allowing it to process and become smooth before adding the next amount.  Add oil as need to keep it flowing, then blend until smooth, finishing with the cheese.

    Keep refrigerated.

    More to follow…

  • June29th

    2 Comments

    oh tomato

    succulent sweet acid fruit

    of nightshade

    winter season separation joyous reunion

    of first blissful dripping red

    sandwich

    undorned in your hotness

    nothing more than pepper and salt

    ferment wheat fired to sun’s surface temperature

    upon wood-fired hearth

    your perfect mate

    swooning

    voraciously consuming

    hunger’s

    anticipation satisfied

    momentarily until again

    i taste you in your flaming red

    dress

    -mark rosenstein

     

  • June6th

    No Comments

    COOKING CLASSES AT WAKE ROBIN FARM with MARK ROSENSTEIN, hosted by GAIL LUNSFORD & STEVEN BARDWELL

    SUNDAY, AUGUST 21 – SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 18 – All classes 3 PM – 7 PM

    Sunday, August 21 – END OF SUMMER, NO WAY ?! – Cook once, eat twice – Cook the “Grand Meal” using the wood-fired oven, all things from the end of Summer’s Garden Riot – tomatoes, corn, squashes and green things paired with the beauty of local pork, slow simmered and juicy, all mopped up with hearth baked bread.  Then eat it again for leftovers, planning for leftovers.  Learn to drink wine and cook at the same time.

    Sunday, September 18 – “PRESSING MATTERS” – Time for apples!  Press apples in Wake Robin Farm’s 1878 vintage fruit mill, cook with cider, cook chicken with apples and cider, cook cider & apple dishes in the wood-fired oven and outdoor grill.  Learn to drink sparkling cider with two-hands.

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