The French Broad
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  • August10th

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    Full Sun Farm – Polyester Knit Spin Cycle

    Without question, I believe farmers have always been inventive, creative individuals, perhaps taking on one of the hardest jobs of all – working with the ever-changing conditions of Nature.  It requires a lot of ingenuity.


    I have been kicking around farms and gardens since my early restaurant days in Highlands, NC and continue to do so, partially in hopes of some sort of magic “gardening dust” rubbing off on me, maybe helping me to grow my own garden successfully.

    Over the past few years, Venessa Campbell and Alex Brown of Full Sun Farms in Big Sandy Mush have humored me and let me visit.  I have always been impressed with the quality of the vegetables they grow.  I was out there this week, enticed by Vanessa’s description of the lunch she fixed. It sounded delicious.  I offered to work for food.

    Tuesday and Friday are harvest days, preparing for the Wednesday and Saturday tailgate markets – and those are the days that Vanessa cooks, so I headed out North Turkey Creek through some of the most beautiful mountain valley land in western North Carolina.  I arrived mid-way through the morning’s work, as I had an early business meeting downtown.  Most of the day’s harvest was complete and now it was time to wash and pack the produce. Read More | Comments

  • March30th

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    -Alisa Hixson

    The email this morning read “ The Crop Mob must go on. ” Noting the weather forecast of rain and possible thunder, we set out to take part in Asheville’s first “Crop Mob.”  The notion and community effort of a “Crop Mob” are not new — just the catchy moniker. For the uninitiated, a “Crop Mob” is an amorphous group of volunteers with varying   skill levels who share a common goal of keeping local farms alive. They work hard, learn or share their knowledge, enjoy the community of others and have some fun.

    Mobbers descend on a chosen farm and, side by side, crank out some key tasks that need doing. A meal is shared after the work has stopped and perhaps some live music. Collaboration, camaraderie, and completion of tasks that many farmers will admit they’d be unable to accomplish even over a few months time. Think barn raising fast forwarded  by the internet. A continuation of a long tradition of  “Do unto others….” Read More | Comments

  • March26th

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    WAITING ALL WINTER & LONGER.

    Now that it is behind us, I can say it without fear of retribution – I hate Winter, the short days, the gloom of fading light at five o’clock.  I miss fresh food and savoring the flavor of sun on dirt transformed into tasty goodness.  I am weary of cooking beans and kale and cabbages.

    The return of longer days isn’t the only thing I have been waiting for.  I have been waiting for the emergence of all those wonderful wild things that grow in the surrounding hills and mountains.  (Not to mention the intoxicating fragrance of daphne – which is blooming now, as I write this).   Since moving to western North Carolina in 1972 I have foraged – mainly mushrooms, but also poke salad, branch lettuce and most wonderful of all – ramps.

    Allium tricoccum – wild leeks, “are one of the first plants to emerge in the spring, traditionally consumed as the season’s first greens.  They are considered a tonic because they provide necessary vitamins and minerals following long winter months without fresh vegetables.” I love them because they taste like garlic, have a fresh crunch and seem to get the juices moving again in my winter weary body. This is most likely true, as research now shows that the sulfur compounds in onions, garlic and leeks has definite, positive medicinal properties. Read More | Comments

  • March3rd

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    “Find something you can do with your children.”

    Michael Porterfield

    Urban farming is not a new concept.  Evidence points to the existence of urban agriculture in ancient cities, including – Paris, Rome, Peking and others…does Macchu Pichu ring a bell?  We have also certainly read about elaborate urban gardens in mythical places and classical ones. The positive benefits are many, generating a fresh local food source and esthetics among the most obvious. Why and how did such a sensible idea vanish? Why and how to bring them back into the 21st century?  What ever happened to those Victory gardens?

    With these thoughts in mind we head to the Oakley neighborhood of Asheville, North Carolina where we have an appointment at Gladheart Farms. We arrive at the end of Lora Lane as directed and find  three  houses of varying styles plus an old barn, a couple of yurts, a trailer home, a wandering goat and the shiny silver frame of a green house in progress. And lots of people. This is not exactly what I had envisioned. Though I don’t know it yet, the next three hours will shift how I think about farms. Read More | Comments

  • February28th

    5 Comments

    A dear friend passed away this week.

    Robert Werth (on right) with Tom Young

    Chef Robert Werth dedicated his life to mentoring and inspiring young culinarians.  We met in 1974, when he sent the first of many students I was to train.  Over the past 36 years of our friendship there was one quality of his that outshone any other and remains an important quality I strive for in my own work.  He had a big heart and always placed humanity and compassion before performance.   The great success of his life was instilling confidence, passion and a positive self-image in those he taught.  A priceless gift.   Though I was never enrolled in AB Tech as a culinary student, I was one of Robert’s pupils.

    My kitchen has been filled with his teachings and his spirit all this time and there are many of my own pupils that owe their success to the lessons of his I have tried to pass on.

    Peace be with you, old friend.

    Mark

  • February27th

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    I hear something like this all the time.

    Friday I had a meeting for a project I have been working on for almost four years.  This year will see the fruit of a long conversation.  Over the course of this time, a deep relationship has developed between us.  One that I hope will continue, as what is shared goes way beyond the discussion of food.  It is about the relationships that come together at the Table.

    Four years is a long time to work on something and recently, just as things were picking up – my friend “evaporated” – emails stopped, no phone messages were returned.  I was pretty sure it wasn’t something I had said, so I was glad when we were finally able to get back together yesterday.  It only took a few minutes to get caught up and to understand the delays – life – once again had intervened to change well laid plans.

    My friend had just gone through a trying episode regarding the care of a grandchild.  He is now living with his grandparents and adjusting to a different environment.  This is a story we are familiar with in some fashion or another.

    My friend allowed how one of the biggest adjustments was the fact that Michael; the grandson, had never eaten dinner at the table – he was used to sitting on the couch in front of the television.  There is no television in his new home.  What was remarkable, now that he was ‘at the table’, a big change was beginning to occur – he had a place to share his feelings, ask questions and feel like someone was listening.

    I would say, he was feeling love.

    This is the essential core of everything I am motivated to write about – gathering at the Table to commune. Without question where our food comes from, being connected to it, knowing how to cook it and find joy in that, and supporting a local farm economy are vitally important.  But none of that can happen unless we make our Table and sit down to share that food.  Actually, food is only the vehicle that allows the sharing to happen.

    To me, it seems rather simple, yet somehow, this escapes us – which is to take time to regularly sit together and break bread without other distraction.

    If you slow down for a moment and listen, you will agree, this is a familiar story – the Power of the Table – to improve our health, to nurture our family and friends, to share love.  What else is more important, what better use of our time?

    Mark Rosenstein

  • February18th

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    From my in-box.

    Alisa forwarded this email from her cousin:

    “I’d love to make a winter salad but things like a “silicon” board and drying the produce..WHAT.  I like  to get my salad greens from the bag of salad section because it is  so much easier to throw some Romaine, baby spinach and sliced tomatoes and cucs into a bowl with feta and balsamic and olive oil.  We usually add some chicken.  So how about some stuff for those of us who have no clue what fennel is, don’t own any kind of board but a nice blue plastic cutting board and don’t know a ceramic dish from a little bit of pyrex.  Some of us don’t take pride in our kitchen ’cause we want to get in and out as FAST as possible, We’ve got multiple loads of laundry, kids to drive to swimming, basketball, brownies and two Dioramas due to the 3rd and 5th grade teachers by Friday.   Hold on ’cause while I was in the middle of crisping my greens the dog threw up on my oriental carpet, while I was cleaning it my greens got a bit over crispy, read BURNED.  LOL.  Its us ignorant American housewives who really need help, after all our chidren also deserve whole, clean food with out toxic substances that cause obesity and mess with our brain. ( because they have neurotoxins)  ………horrors, no wonder we are all suffering from anxiety disorders, we are probably consuming a stew of anxiety in our food.” Read More | Comments

  • February11th

    8 Comments

    ….. in only a couple of generations, the skills they thought were basic to one’s existence were so uncommon that they became a novelty.” Jeanette Wilson – Hominy Valley Farms – Land and Cattle

    On a snowy no-school day I set off with my 9 year old son to meet Jeanette Wilson of Hominy Valley Farms Land and Cattle in Candler. A third generation farm raising  natural beef cattle,  pastured raised chickens and organic vegetables  (some from heirloom seeds). Much snow had fallen and we were not sure we’d  be able to make it up to her home at the top of the farm even with 4 wheel drive. We agreed to meet wherever we both ended up. She’d walk down the mountain and we’d drive up.  It was one of those mornings that can make you love winter. A brilliant rising sun and the countryside blanketed in pastel morning light,  the snap of the cold an energizing force.

    We find the road just past the Kubota tractor sign. We climb the hill up towards the Wilson home, grateful for the frozen ruts forged by her husband’s tractor. We find  Jeanette walking towards us boots up to her knees. We meet and  decide to walk the rest of the way up to her home, snow crunching underfoot. I turn around and look out over the valley we have just climbed through. It is a postcard. Read More | Comments